TEXTILES.ORG
The ongoing tariff uncertainty will certainly impact the global textiles and apparel market. Although a needed commodity, textiles are dependent on discretionary spending, which depends on the economy. GDP growth plays a critical role in the consumption of textiles and apparels and, therefore, the growth and market size of the global textiles and apparel sectors.
Textile chemicals and specialty formulations are important segments of the global textiles market. According to Markets and Markets, the textile coating market share is about $ 4.5 billion, which is expected to grow at 4.6 percent, reaching a value of $5.4 billion by 2028. Among the different segments of the textiles industry, chemicals are under scrutiny and subject to regulations, due to their innate nature and perceived risks to the environment and human health.
Regulating chemicals in the textiles industry
The textiles industry supports cautious use of chemicals due to environmental and health concerns. Overburdening and overreach without the backing of good science attracts the attention of stakeholders. The European Union is a leader in setting stricter regulations with chemicals, supported by “Regulation on the Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH). Through this landmark regulation, the stakeholders collect and provide input on the contents and properties of chemicals used in the European Chemicals Agency database. According to the European Commission, REACH aims to:
- Provide protection to human health and the environment
- Evaluate the safety of chemicals
- Innovate new chemicals
- Promote non-animal methods for evaluating the hazardous nature of chemicals
An important aspect of the REACH regulation, in force since 2007, is enabling consumers’ right to know if the product they use contains any harmful elements. At first this regulation caused some resistance in its implementation, but it’s now part of the textile trade and has gained support across the value chain.
The textile industry, from the fiber-to-fashion supply chain and beyond the commodity sector, uses a variety of chemicals. The natural and synthetic fiber industry, and textile wet processing and finishing, depend on chemicals where safety is of paramount importance. Agricultural production of natural fibers such as cotton use chemical fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides that attract the attention of regulatory bodies. U.S. cotton producers have become good stewards of the environment with the reduced use of pesticides, water, no-till and regenerative farming, and other improved agronomic practices, which avoids excessive use of resources.
American cotton farmers brand their practice the “Better Cotton Initiative.” Chemical forensic methods are utilized to identify pesticide and herbicide residuals in fibers so that constant improvement in farming can be done to provide safe and high quality cotton. For example, during the processing of cotton yarn, natural starch is highly encouraged during the sizing operation to reduce synthetic chemical runoff and avoid pollution.
Currently, global attention is focused on PFAS chemicals. Two recently published peer-reviewed papers related to textiles and the paper industry are particularly useful, and should be noted:
- Perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS)—Fibrous substrates, TAPPI Journal (https://imisrise.tappi.org/TAPPI/Products/23/SEP/23SEP559.aspx)
- Remediation of Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances in Nonwoven Production and Paper Sectors: A Brief Review, AATCC Journal of Research (https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1177/24723444241237301)
Advanced formulations for functionalization
It is not possible to totally avoid synthetic dyes and chemicals, but the textile sector is following precautionary methods. Better safety awareness and safety training programs are emphasized. Textile dyeing, finishing and nonwoven processes have better effluent filtration and handling systems. In the U.S., the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), state-wise environmental regulatory bodies, such as the Texas Commission of Environmental Quality, provide oversight and regulatory responsibility to limit polluting effluents.
In countries like India, a major textile manufacturing country, the industry is taking steps to avoid hazardous chemicals. There are multiple programs supported by federal and local governmens in India that help with setting up “green” field manufacturing parks that have central effluent and water treatment plants to economize for manufacturers. In India, programs like the Production Linked Incentive can be tapped, which boosts manufacturing with the help of government subsidies.
International bodies such as the Durham, N.C.-based American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) and the U.K.-based Society of Dyers and Colorists have outreach efforts to engage with manufacturers to reduce pollution and improve quality standards. “The safety of chemicals used in formulation is of paramount importance to customers,” says Dr. Narasimhan Srinivasan, founder and chairman of Chennai, India-based Asthagiri Herbal Research Foundation.
While it is not possible to be devoid of synthetic-based chemicals, efforts must be made to accommodate natural and herbal-based formulations. Natural products can be used as an isolated active ingredient, or “anupana,” can be employed. As a cost saving, the textile industry could adopt this concept, employing a carrier of different functionalities, instead of focusing on one active ingredient. This way of coating or treatment with an anupana carrier imparts multiple functionalities. In the process, we must make sure ingredients that may have detrimental effects are avoided. This will require collaboration among different scientific disciplines, such as chemistry, toxicology, chemical engineering, and material sciences.
Anupana and advanced textiles
Functionality is the prime driver in the industrial and advanced textiles sectors. Anupana, the functional finish carrier concept, is a new and revolutionary concept and it provides a cost-effective way to impart safe multifunctionality to textiles.
This concept can be illustrated using the dyeing of cotton textiles with turmeric powder. Curcumin is an ingredient found in turmeric ,“curcuma longa,” which is a plant belonging to the ginger family. Extracting active ingredient catering to one functionality may be costly and scaling-up may be difficult, but by using the concept of anupana, turmeric as a carrier can impart color as well as broad spectrum antibacterial functionality.
Dye chemistry expertise will help to select suitable dye and fixing agents that utilize the natural coloring aspect of turmeric. The natural dye in turmeric normally fades and there is a need to enhance its durability. By solving the durability issue, the natural color may be complementary to the dyes that are added to give coloration and aesthetics to the fabric.
Such anupana technology may be revolutionary to enable commodity textiles to have functionality. Chennai-based Asthagiri Herbal Research Foundation has been pioneering the concept to develop alternative and herbal medicines, functional wipes and other products.
Safe chemical advancements
Research and development in functional chemistries, active ingredients and nano materials are needed to move the advanced textiles industry forward. Ongoing efforts by Bengaluru, India-based Resil Chemicals should be recognized for this. The company has released a new generation of silicone finishes, such as Aquafil and Silkiest, to provide new properties for cotton and blends.
Aquafil on cotton provides instant absorption, enhanced water retaining capability and improved horizontal and vertical wicking. This keeps the skin dry, creating new opportunities for cotton in activewear products. Fifth generation Silkiest treatment helps with good re-dyeability of woven and knitted fabrics. Leading companies such as Welspun, Maral Overseas Ltd., and Erode-based India Dyeing Mills are using the new generation of silicones for imparting added value to their products.
As the price of raw material is the principal component of product costs, it’s not possible to offset price increases of cotton solely by other means. Ganesh Srinivasan, CEO of Resil Chemicals, says finding value-added applications will provide improved margins for the industry.
What’s next
Textile finishes are important value-added components that will advance the commodity, fast-fashion, and advanced textiles industries. First and foremost, safety information about the components and their influence on health and the environment must be part of manufacturing, use, and marketing of functional textile products. Both synthetic and natural product-based chemistries are needed to provide value-added functionalities to materials.
The industry must consider the safety, functionality requirements, and cost of finishes in the final product. Nevertheless, functional finishes and functional products are the products of the future, and advanced textiles offer opportunities for manufacturing growth in both developed and developing economies.
Dr. Seshadri Ramkumar is a professor in the Department of Environmental Toxicology and The Institute of Environmental and Human Health, Texas Tech University, and a regular contributor to Textile Technology Source.