The magical realism of biomaterials

In writing, “magical realism” is a genre of fiction that combines realism with magical elements, but (if you’re good at this sort of writing) the magical elements seem plausible—fitting in but blurring the lines between what we know and what we can imagine. This, to me, is where some of today’s fiber science lands, although I know it is not only plausible, it’s very much a part of the textile landscape right now, and it’s growing. 

I do not pretend to understand—really understand—the way plant materials such as plant waste can go from a garbage pile, essentially, to a processing facility where the raw material can ultimately become a fiber and thereafter spun into yarn to be made into a textile material (or textile-like material, if you like) that can end up as a shirt, bathrobe or curtains. 

Visions of Willy Wonka appear. Nevertheless, I believe it, because I trust the experts who know how to do it, and it’s as good as magic to me. I wear clothes made out of all kinds of plants (I’m a fanatical hangtag reader), and it’s even more fun to score a clothes buy in a second-hand shop with the fiber content tag listing natural fibers still intact. Call it retail foraging. (Don’t miss Dr. Seshadri Ramkumar’s upcoming feature on this site discussing that hot button word, “natural.”)

In a sea of polyester and acrylic, finding sleep pants, for example, made from 100 percent cotton—much less organic cotton—is akin to spotting a huge lobster mushroom peaking through the dead leaves in the woods. Kind of rare and worth the search.  I’m equally thrilled to discover a new fiber brand touting its plant-based origins. 

And, of course, it’s not just about apparel; we all know that there are many other uses for plant fiber-based materials, from upholstery, to acoustic treatments, filtering, insulation, storage containers, medical and bio-medical products. Pretty much any product that uses textile materials could now—or may one day—use non-petroleum-based materials. 

There’s a reason that polyester made major inroads very quickly back when my mother was still sewing some of my clothes. The earliest apparel polyester was dang near indestructible. What’s not to love? Well, indestructible cut both ways. You could bury it in the back yard and dig it up a while later and maybe it was still wash ‘n wear. 

But our needs change, and right now more sustainable materials are in demand, and that demand is growing. This is one reason why we keep talking about biomaterials in this publication. 

Another reason is the new research in this area that surfaces fairly regularly, giving us a lot to talk about. Debra Cobb’s new feature on this site, “Test tube textiles,” describes an interesting range of new textile materials. Whether inspired by squid’s teeth, converted from CO₂ or made from field crops, cellulosic-based fiber materials are commercially available worldwide. 

We don’t typically talk about apparel and fashion on this site; our mission is to provide information on high-tech functional textile products. But the R & D in more sustainable textiles is so significant that it belongs in the “emerging” category where this publication lives. I still think its pretty magical.

Janet Preus is senior editor of Textile Technology Source. She can be reached at janet.preus@textiles.org.