TEXTILES.ORG
Today over 90 percent of textiles are imported in the U.S. Globalization has altered the manufacturing dynamics where cost has dominated the trade, shifting labor-intensive industries, such as textiles, leather, jewelry and others, away from the most developed nations. This trend has continued for over 35 years, but recently, discussions have begun to bring back these industries to developed countries, particularly the U.S. The primary reason has been to create jobs.
Industry associations like the American Medical Manufacturers Association (AMMA) are advocating domestic manufacturing and procurement by defense and other national agencies. Recently, the U.S. cotton industry, through the National Cotton Council, has been championing the Buying American Cotton Act (BACA). The cotton industry is seeking financial incentives for domestic manufacturers to manufacture within the U.S. by procuring U. S. raw materials to be more competitive.
These advocacies are not only aimed at bringing back manufacturing jobs, but also to ensure safety, quality and timely availability of critical goods, including for defense, medical applications, and other functional textile products.
Industry drivers
It is generally believed that the primary driver behind consumer products industries like textiles is cost; however, cost alone is not the determining factor. Applications, functionality, quality, regulations, health and environmental concerns are influencing the industry.
Textile industry organizations, including the Advanced Textiles Association (ATA), the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA), the European apparel and textile confederation EURATEX, and the European association for nonwovens EDANA, should focus on propagating and communicating the competitive edge and aspects of the industry in more advanced economies, particularly in areas where high quality standards, people-friendly regulations, and timely delivery are basic requirements.
Additionally, governments must formulate supportive policies and balanced regulations, with the help of these organizations, and based on science and factual data. Some of the arguments industry associations and proponents of onshoring manufacturing place before policymakers are quality; timely delivery; labor laws compliance; fair wages; and product safety.
Many major brands like Nike and Adidas, who source from India, Bangladesh, China and other countries, have local sourcing offices and agents who are familiar with working conditions, and product quality standards that play important roles in fair sourcing.
Standards organization ASTM International, the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), INDA and EDANA all develop standards based on member input and needs. AATCC organizes technical committee meetings where members with interest in particular aspects propose new standards and update old ones.
As the need for sustainable textiles has grown, RA100 Global Sustainability Test Methods, for example, have been created. Such practices are needed in the textiles industry, with standards getting improved to fulfill changing applications, functionalities and requirements. Advanced textiles such as hygiene, medical, automotive, and industrial products need robust standards to maintain quality and consistency.
For example, in medical textiles, it will be in the best interest of the advanced textiles sector to work with the medical sector and its industry organizations, such as the AMMA. These symbiotic cooperative efforts must be strengthened. This need became evident in recent years due to the pandemic. Leading consumer product brands in the U.S. expect vendors such as spunmelt manufacturers to adhere to their standards in manufacturing, product quality and consistency, as well as observing labor standards. Lack of quality and low domestic manufacturing capacity exposed supply chain loopholes which were reflected in less availability of personnel protective equipment, including critical N95 masks, during the pandemic.
During this period, it became evident that U.S.-based hospitals were, essentially, importing face masks and medical drapes from China. It was also revealed that some products were substandard, underscoring the importance of stringent medical-level, quality standards. The U.S. government, realizing the situation, imposed tariff and non-tariff barriers such as stringent quality requirements. These barriers get mixed feedback from stakeholders, and their real impact needs to be better evaluated on a long-term basis.
What is needed
In the commodity and consumer product sectors, as well-established standards exist for quality, standards developments will be incremental. The immediate need is, rather, in the development of test methods for material, physical and chemical characteristics of emerging materials such as nanofibers, wearables and inorganic-fiber composites.
Additionally, a thorough understanding of the fate and toxicity of novel materials, and the influence of these materials and their degradation products on health and the environment is also needed. Microplastics are among the degradation products that are now receiving due attention.
The range of disciplines involved in textiles is emerging, bringing innovations in allied fields, such as electronics, applied mechanics, and engineering, to develop textile and textile-like materials. Materials developed using multidisciplinary approaches will require understanding basic principles in a variety of scientific fields, which will result in the demand for new tests and quality standards. As material characteristics are influenced by physical and chemical attributes and structure, the quality of a final product is influenced by these factors. Therefore, test methods must be devised to reflect the correct quality of new textile materials.
As a case in point, a new, environmentally friendly plasma finishing process is gaining interest among both the conventional and advanced textiles industries. High energy plasma alters the surface of substrates, while affecting tenacity. There are reports showing both the positive and negative influence of atmospheric and vacuum plasma on tenacity of finished products.
In conventional tenacity testing, standards have been established, taking into account a “weak link” aspect. Based on a thorough review of previously published results on the relationship between plasma surface treatments and mechanical properties, testing standards must be evolved. In such a high energy treatment, the propensity of particle shedding will be high, leading to microplastic issues.
In advanced textiles—particularly with medical applications—products are single use. Therefore, unlike in apparel, where microfiber shedding during washing has occupied attention, a new direction in thinking is needed for single-use and semi-durable medical textiles. Such new issues that evolve due to new treatment processes must be among the considerations when formulating new regulations and standards.
For immediate attention
Issues of concern with PFAS (per- and poly-fluoroalkyl substances) and microplastics have become part of “kitchen table” discussions and have also received scrutiny from policy makers, NGOs and consumers. These have led to class action lawsuits demanding immediate attention from industry and regulators.
The textile industry must work closely with regulatory bodies, standardization organizations and scientific entities to understand the influence of new materials and chemical formulations on health, the environment and production. The areas that need attention are:
- PFAS chemistry
- Microplastic pollution
- New formulation chemistry
- Recyclability concerns
- Product labeling
- Green labeling
- Disposability
- Flushability
- Toxic material remediation and decontamination.
All these issues have connection with consumer acceptance, health, and the environment. Standards must be robust and based on peer-reviewed science to regulate issues connected with areas noted above. Such an exercise will help industry to develop alternate and better solutions.
“Given the volatility in oil markets and health effects of some of the chemicals such as PFAS, industry should focus on investment in green technologies and products,” says Srinivasan Narasimhan, founder and president of Chennai, India-based Asthagiri Herbal Foundation. He insisted on the need for close interaction between producers and end-users in formulating regulations and standards.
Where is PFAS regulation headed?
Science has shown that PFAS ingredients can negatively impact health and the environment. Federal regulatory bodies need to identify the maximum contaminant [MCL] level of these chemicals in textiles, leather and paper products. This may take some time, so a total ban would be a complete panacea. In fact, several states in the U.S. already have a total PFAS ban in textiles and apparel. Data sets are evolving and sizeable data is needed to make informed decisions on PFAS regulations in textiles and allied products at a national level.
Regulators are actively focusing on PFAS chemicals in drinking water, which of course is a priority. In addition to federal-level regulations, many states are working on regulations and MCL in drinking water based on factors relevant to their communities. PFAS in drinking water is regulated by U.S. EPA. Most recently, EPA made two announcements regarding PFAS in drinking water. One rule stipulates the maximum contaminant level of PFAS chemicals. MCL levels are enforceable at 4 parts per trillion for PFOA and PFOS. This rule gives the option for local agencies to request a two-year extension for implementation to 2031.
The standard threshold should be set based on a large population study representing different demographics and regions. Data over an extended period showing the cause and effect, should be the basis for standards and revisions which are the responsibilities of local, state and federal regulating bodies in respective countries.
Based on scientific data, stakeholders can take necessary action, such as evolving new alternatives, understanding the effect of molecular chemistries and chemical species on the total product, and understanding the influence of these chemicals on humans and animals. Establishing acceptable and allowable levels, based on safety and scientific studies, will provide more opportunity for the industry to develop safe alternative chemicals.
There is no federal standard yet regarding PFAS in textiles, leather and allied sectors. Some states, Connecticut and Maine among them, have bans on textiles which have intentionally added PFAS in them. The types of textiles which are regulated may vary depending on applications, such as for outdoor products, carpets or home textiles. States which have regulations on PFAS in textiles require disclosure of PFAS content in products, which is a regulation in the right direction.
Another aspect impacting the textile industry is PFAS in effluent discharge, which is not under a regulation for monitoring. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), data on the use and discharge of PFAS is limited and hence the EPA will continue to monitor and collect data before any new regulations are attempted. However, the textile sector is pursuing its own efforts to develop alternatives to PFAS, which is a positive trend, and some states are constantly revising the threshold level, creating more stringent restrictions on PFAS.
Meanwhile, the European Union is moving towards a universal ban on PFAS. Industries in both the U.S. and Europe must engage in research for finding alternative chemicals. The government-funded Swiss Federal Laboratories for Materials Science and Technology (EMPA) is engaged in multidisciplinary approaches to replace PFAS, which will help the global textile sector to move towards sustainable chemistries.
The microplastics issue
Microplastics are an issue of concern for the synthetic textiles industry. A large body of scientific literature is available describing the accumulation of microparticles in vital organs, including the brain, and science-based data show that these microparticles in tissues and organs can lead to harmful effects. The industry has been active in tackling the issue by creating test methods developed by professional and industry associations, such as the AATCC.
The textile industry has so far focused on two major aspects: 1) developing test methods to measure microplastics and associated particles that shed from textiles, and 2) promoting sustainable fibers as alternatives to synthetics. It has also been focused to a degree on understanding the level of microplastics in wash cycles and water runoff from washing machines.
The industry, however, has not yet focused on understanding the occurrence of microplastic at different stages of processing synthetics and blends. It is a demanding task, but such efforts will help to control the shedding of fine particles at the consumer usage level by fine tuning manufacturing processes right from the blowroom to finishing. This will be a preventive approach, which may demand processing adjustments and blend variations.
As a way of controlling the contamination, attention must be focused on blend levels bringing different natural fibers in the mix, depending on applications and requirements. Natural fibers like cotton provide opportunities to reduce microplastics in the food chain. The U.S.-based National Cotton Council has launched a campaign, “Plant not Plastic,” to engage with brands and consumers and provide information on the ill effects of plastic accumulation in the human body and the environment.
Advocacy and marketing campaigns can enhance awareness on environmental aspects of the products used by consumers. As a case in point, health advocacy groups, NGOs, and natural fiber industry organizations, such as Cotton Inc., have done a tremendous job in promoting the negative effects of microplastics.
In a recent presentation, Dr. Jesse Daystar, chief sustainability officer at Cotton Inc., presented data based on a survey of consumers showing how awareness of microplastics has increased in recent years. Globally, in 2017, it was 27 percent and it increased to 45 percent in 2023. In China, the data was 19 percent in 2017, which increased to 47 percent in 2023.
The awareness in the U.S. also increased showcasing how science-backed marketing campaigns can help to engage with the public. It’s important that test methods are developed to evaluate microplastics formation right from polymer synthesis to usage at the consumer level, and even at the end-of-life stage.
Addressing recycling
The textile industry is active in utilizing recycled fibers to make products more sustainable. According to a recent survey by the Association of Plastic Recyclers and the U.S. Plastics Pact, the collection of PET and HDPE bottles after use has been lagging in the U.S. compared to an earlier survey. According to the report, PET recycling facility closures in 2025 and 2026 have brought down the domestic PET recycling capacity by 25 percent. It is in the interest of the textile industry to come up with strategies to increase consumer awareness, interest in recycling common plastic items, and strengthening coordination to collect and acquire them.
These post-consumer plastic items can be easily processed through mechanical means, provided collection and separation are streamlined. Large retail businesses and brands can encourage closed loop processes by providing some incentives for responsible collection of used plastic bottles. These constitute the raw material for the synthetic fiber industry.
There are still issues in the separation of different materials from post-consumer textiles. There need to be labeling standards on the residual fiber content in recycled materials, as it may be a tall order to enable 100 percent separation.
There is also a need to have a guidebook on the material characteristics of products made from recycled materials. Such guidance values will enable the industry to adjust the blends levels to obtain quality products, reasonably matching products made from virgin materials.
Mechanical separation and recycling are cost efficient and widely practiced, but they have an inherent disadvantage of not achieving 100 percent separation efficiency. Efforts must be made to enhance the adaptation of chemical recycling wherever applicable.
A way forward
The textile industry must invest in R&D to find replacements for toxic chemicals. While governments are busy regulating the acceptable levels of these chemicals in water systems and environment, there need to be more initiatives to promote alternative materials which are compostable and biodegradable, including a bigger and more timely government commitment for research in developing biobased materials and sustainable chemistry.
Government’s support in promoting sustainability and helping to promote greater awareness will spur the industry to invest in circular and sustainability initiatives. The Government of India has launched a “Tex-Eco Initiative” to grow the sustainable textile and apparel sectors, releasing a “Mapping of Textile Waste Value Chain in India” report which gives comprehensive assessment of textile waste generation, recovery pathways, recycling technologies, and ways to strengthen circularity across India’s textile Industry.
The EU is ahead in terms of regulations and in research into harmful products. A good transatlantic alliance between academia and research organizations will help speed up research and promote balanced regulation.
Dr. Seshadri Ramkumar is a professor in the Department of Environmental Toxicology and The Institute of Environmental and Human Health, Texas Tech University, and a regular contributor to Textile Technology Source.